The world is a big place. Most of us live and die in the same corner where we were born and never get to see any of it. I don’t want to be most of us.
They say Iceland is the land of fire and ice, but in early December, it feels more like a scene straight out of Game of Thrones. While most travelers avoid the Arctic winter to dodge the “expensive” reputation of the North, my husband and I headed straight into the heart of it. We wanted the magic of the Aurora Borealis and the whimsical glow of Icelandic Christmas markets. As it turns out, the smaller crowds and budget-friendly finds were just the bonus! Here is how we conquered Iceland in 5 days.
Getting There
Our journey started at 3:00 am in Woburn, MA. We took the Logan Express ($18 roundtrip), which is hands-down the easiest way to get to Boston Logan Airport. They run every half hour, they are never late, and it saved us the nightmare of Boston traffic and parking fees – plus, its cheaper than an Uber!
We have a “rule of thumb” to get to Logan at least two hours early, so we were settled at our gate by 4:00 am for our 6:00 am flight. We flew PLAY Airlines; the plane was small but the flight was decent, especially considering the $400 roundtrip price tag!
⚠️ Travel Update: Play Airlines: While we flew Play Airlines for $400 roundtrip, they unfortunately ceased all operations and filed for bankruptcy in September 2025. For current trips from Boston or elsewhere, I recommend checking Icelandair or major carriers like Delta for comparable deals. Use a flight aggregator to find the best current rates before you book!
When we landed at Keflavík International Airport (KEF), we were exhausted. Between the 2:30 am wakeup call and the fact that time literally goes backwards when you fly east to Iceland, we were running on zero sleep and pure excitement. Maybe that’s why the airport felt so confusing! We actually walked in circles twice before finally spotting a massive blue sign that said “Exit to Iceland.” I’m still not sure how we missed it the first two times, but let’s blame the jetlag. Here’s a map if you’re exhausted too 😴
Prior to landing in Iceland, we booked a rental car and travel insurance (Visitor’s Coverage). For our rental vehicle, we used Blue Car Rental, and while the service was great, the check-in process was a bit of a “detective fail” on our part.
You take a shuttle from the airport to their building. We were the first or second people in line, just standing there waiting for an employee. Meanwhile, a crowd of people trickled in behind us. After a long wait, an employee finally announced, “You guys all have to check in on the kiosk first.”
By the time we realized what was happening, almost everyone had jumped in front of us. We ended up dead last in line, which was a rough start to the trip while being that exhausted!
📝 Pro-Tip: Since we landed early and couldn’t check in until 2:00 pm, we had to resort to napping in our rental car on the side of the road. If your budget allows, book your room for the night before you arrive so you can shower and sleep the second you land—it’s worth every penny!
Mittens’ Icelandic Doppelgänger 🐾
Little side story…While we were stretching our legs during our roadside nap break, we spotted a local resident that stopped us in our tracks—a cat that looked exactly like our cat, Mittens!
We’re constantly thinking about our pets when we travel, so seeing her “Icelandic Twin” felt like a little sign from home. We affectionately dubbed her “Icelandic Mittens.”
Since our trip, I’ve actually spotted two different posts in Iceland travel groups on Facebook featuring this same cat. I’d like to think she’s out there living her absolute best life as the unofficial mascot of Reykjavik!
Icelandic Mittens (Left); Our Mittens (Right)
Day 1: Exploring Reykjavik
We decided to split our stay to get the best of both worlds: two nights in the heart of the city at Hótel Frón, followed by two nights in the countryside in Akranes.
At around $120 total for the two nights in Reykjavik, Hótel Frón was a major budget-friendly win. The rooms were incredibly clean and cozy, and the location was unbeatable—we were right in the middle of all the downtown hot spots, which made exploring the city on foot so much easier.
After a much-needed shower to wash off the jet lag, we hit the convenience store across the street to stock up on snacks and a bottle of wine. Refreshed and replenished, we were finally ready to head out and explore.
Stepping out of the hotel felt like walking directly into a holiday movie. Downtown Reykjavik in December is a literal dream; there are hot chocolate stands on every corner, festive music playing in the streets, and the “Yule Lad” scavenger hunt projections lighting up the buildings. It was the perfect introduction to the whimsy of an Icelandic winter.
📸 Iconic Locations: The famous Hallgrímskirkja church, the Viking statue by the water, and the colorful Rainbow Road (free) are all located in Reykjavík, Iceland!
Dinner in Reykjavik: Sheep’s Head & Icelandic Tipping
After exploring the city, we headed to Íslenski Barinn – The Icelandic Bar. The restaurant was draped in beautiful Christmas lights, making for a very cozy atmosphere, and our waitress was incredibly kind and attentive. She even brought us two mini bottles of prosecco for our anniversary!
💵 The Tipping Scoop: Customarily, tipping isn’t expected in Iceland. Our waitress explained that even if you do tip, the money is often divided among the back-of-house staff rather than going directly to the server.
The Menu: From “Blue Rare” Whale to the Best Sheep’s Head
We decided to be adventurous with our order, and it was the highlight of our culinary trip!
The Appetizer Platter: This massive spread was a perfect introduction to local flavors. It featured a variety of Icelandic specialties including prosciutto, smoked salmon, creamy cheeses, fresh citrus, heart-shaped crackers, and traditional rye bread. And of course my husband had to also get a side of chicken wings!
The Sheep’s Head: This was the absolute star of the show. Honestly, it was the best thing I have ever had in my life! The meat was incredibly tender and flavorful. I would fly back to Reykjavík tomorrow just to eat it one more time. If you visit, don’t let the name scare you off—it’s a must-try.
The Whale: This had the texture and flavor of a “blue rare” steak. While it was an interesting experience, it wasn’t something we’d necessarily crave again.
🐳 Note from a Reader: A helpful reader pointed out that while whale is often found on tourist menus, it isn’t actually a traditional staple for most locals and is a major conservation concern in Iceland. I wasn’t aware of this during my visit, but after learning more, I’d encourage future travelers to skip the plate and stick to whale watching instead—it’s a much better way to support these amazing animals!
Day 2: Volcanic Valleys and the “Game of Thrones” Hike
We started our first full day in Reykjavik with a wake-up call that was literally steaming.
🔥 A Word of Warning: When you jump in the shower here, be extremely careful with the temperature. Because of the intense volcanic activity underground, the water gets scalding hot almost instantly. Test it with your hand before you dive in, or you’ll get a very “Icelandic” surprise!
After refreshing (and not getting burned!), we headed down for the free hotel breakfast. It was a classic Nordic spread: a variety of deli meats (like ham and salami), local cheeses, fresh breads, and thick, creamy yogurt (Skyr). It was simple, filling, and exactly what we needed for the trek ahead.
The Hike to Reykjadalur Thermal River
When in Iceland, you gotta hit up at least one hot spring. We wanted something more authentic than the Blue Lagoon, so I did my research and found a gem. We drove about 45 minutes to the Reykjadalur Thermal Bathing River.
At the trailhead, we met a group our age from MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology)! It was such a “small world” moment being so far from home, and we all decided to hike to the river together.
This is no easy stroll. The path wasn’t the clearest in certain spots, winding through snow and mountains. We even got hit by a few snow squalls on the way!
Every time we turned a corner, we thought we were “almost there,” only to find more trail. Having a group with us definitely made the uncertainty easier to handle.
After an hour of hiking in the snow, we finally saw the thermal fog rising. It felt like we were in Game of Thrones hiking North of the Wall!
Once we reached the water, my husband was hesitant to get in because the air was so freezing. I had to convince him that after an hour in the cold, getting into that warm water was the only way to stay warm and avoid frostbite! He finally listened and was instantly relieved.
Pro-Tips for Reykjadalur:
- Free & Authentic: Unlike the Blue Lagoon—which is overpriced, overhyped, and packed with people—this is free and totally natural.
- Find Your Temp: The further up the stream you walk, the hotter the water gets.
- Privacy: There are no formal changing rooms, just wooden slat panels to give you a bit of privacy while you swap into your suit.
- The Exit: Getting out of the water and changing back into layers in the freezing wind is the hardest part. Be prepared to move fast!
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Packing Truths
Walking through snow squalls proved one thing: don’t overpack. If you’re used to Boston winters (30-35°F), you just need the basics:
- A solid winter coat and thermal leggings.
- Boots with good traction (my pink Lugs were perfect).
- A hat, gloves, and a neck gaiter (way better than a scarf!).
- Type F/C adapter plug for North American, UK, or other non-European devices (cellphones, laptops, whatever you need to plug in at your hotel or Airbnb!)
We hiked back just as the sun was setting and storm clouds were rolling in, making it back to the car safely before the next round of snow hit. It was a hike, for sure, but the views of the mountains and the thermal steam were breathtaking and 100% worth it.
The Reward: Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur
After the drive back to Reykjavik, we hit the legendary hot dog stand: Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur.
- The Price: About $5 USD (700 ISK)—the best budget meal in town!
- The Order: Ask for “Ein með öllu” (one with everything). These are made mostly with Icelandic lamb, and the combo of ketchup, sweet brown mustard (pylsusinnep), remoulade, raw white onions, and crispy fried onions is out of this world. We both agreed we could have eaten here for every single meal.
We ended the night at the hotel with a movie, resting up for the big drive to Akranes in the morning! ❄️🌭🇮🇸
Day 3: Leaving the City for the Quiet Charm of Akranes
After two incredible days in Reykjavík, it was time to pack up the Mitsubishi and head north. We were looking for a bit more of a local, quiet vibe. Akranes was the perfect choice.
The drive was approximately 45 minutes, but extremely beautiful. You actually head through the Hvalfjörður Tunnel, which takes you deep under the fjord. It’s a bit of a trip to realize you’re driving under the ocean floor! As soon as we popped out on the other side, the landscape opened up into that classic, rugged Icelandic coast.
Our Akranes Airbnb
We finally pulled up to our home for the next two nights. The vibe of this Airbnb is the ultimate “secluded sanctuary” meet “home away from home.” It’s a cozy, minimalist bungalow nestled right into the rugged Icelandic landscape, offering a front-row seat to the Northern Lights and breathtaking mountain views from the comfort of a private hot tub. ✨
It was so nice to finally unpack and settle in. One of the best parts about staying in an Airbnb here is having a full kitchen to prepare dinner. My husband wasted no time preparing us a romantic dinner🍷
Iceland can be very expensive. However, this place was a steal at only $360 for two nights. The setup is incredibly unique, featuring two separate buildings situated next to each other with a private, natural hot-spring-fed hot tub nestled between them for total privacy.
The main building includes a full-size bed, a well-equipped kitchen, and a cozy living room with TV and Wi-Fi, while the second building houses bunk beds and a full bathroom with a shower—making it perfect if you’re traveling with kids or extra guests.
Our host, Eyjólfur, was incredibly kind and responsive; while it was a seamless self-check-in process, he lives nearby and was ready to help if we needed it. The absolute highlight of the stay was sitting in that thermal water every night and watching the Northern Lights dance right above us! I mean seriously…check out this photo from the cabin!!! Unbeatable…
Winding down for the night in Akranes was nothing short of a dream. There is something truly magical about sinking into that mineral-rich, volcanic-fed water while the world around you is draped in white.
As a gentle snow began to fall, we soaked in the natural warmth with nothing but the sound of the wind and the steam rising around us. Sharing that moment with the one you love, tucked away in the Icelandic tundra while watching the stars and the vibrant dance of the Northern Lights directly above, felt like we had stepped into a different world entirely. It was the perfect, peaceful ending to a wonderful day.
💡 Pro-Tip: The “Snow Shovel” Cooling Method
The hot tub is fed by natural hot springs from deep underground, which means it is scalding hot. It took about three hours for the temperature to become bearable enough to jump in. We actually ended up shoveling snow into the water just to cool it down faster! If you’re planning on a nightly soak, make sure you start filling it hours beforehand so it has time to reach a safe temp.
Want to stay where we did? Check out Eyjólfur’s Airbnb here.
Day 4: The Journey to “Arrowhead Mountain” & The Great Gas Dilemma
Determined to make the most of our final full day, we rose with the sun and headed north toward toward Kirkjufell, famously known to Game of Thrones fans as the “mountain like an arrowhead” from North of the Wall.
Although the drive from Akranes to Kirkjufell was about 2 hours, it was absolutely stunning. We saw wild Icelandic horses along the way and even pulled over for a quick photoshoot!
*ding ding*
Then the gas light flickered on… and there was absolutely nothing but white tundra in sight. I realized with a jolt of panic that I couldn’t even remember the last time we’d passed a station.
Luckily, our signal held out long enough to find a lifeline: an N1 Self-Service in Grundarfjörður, just five minutes away from Kirkjufell. Crisis averted, but barely.
The Gas Station Strategy
It was on this leg of the trip that we encountered a major travel hurdle: the Icelandic gas station system.
If you are planning a road trip here, listen closely: Gas stations in Iceland—especially the self-service ones in more remote areas—often require a chip-and-PIN card. There’s also a major hold on your card after getting gas….
- The Hold Hazard: Many people think you only get a temporary hold if you select the “Fill Up” option. That is a myth. Even though we only selected 5000 ISK (about $35 USD) for gas, the pump placed a staggering $380 USD hold on our card!
- The Solution: The absolute best way to avoid this is to buy a pre-paid gas card (like N1 or Olís) inside the station shop or use a pre-paid Visa specifically for fuel.
- Budgeting Made Easy: Trying to convert Icelandic Króna (ISK) to USD at the pump is a headache even with a conversion app. Using a pre-paid card simplifies everything and keeps your actual bank account safe from those pesky holds.
Once we sorted the gas situation, we finally made it to Grundarfjörður to see Kirkjufell in person. Standing at 463 meters, it’s remarkably symmetrical and looks different from every angle.
We made sure to walk over to the Kirkjufellsfoss waterfalls. This is the “money shot” where you get the three small falls in the foreground with the mountain towering behind.
The Atmosphere: Even with other travelers around, there is a powerful, ancient energy here. Between the volcanic rock and the freezing spray from the falls, you truly feel like you’ve stepped into another realm.
Snæfellsnes Peninsula Vibes
The drive back was just as beautiful as the way there. This peninsula is often called “Iceland in Miniature” because you see a little bit of everything: lava fields, dramatic cliffs, and fishing villages.
After a long day of driving, we were more than ready to head back to the Airbnb, fire up the hot tub, and keep an eye out for the northern lights.
Winter is Here: The Game of Thrones Guide
As a massive fan, I was so happy we got to see Kirkjufell – the “Arrowhead Mountain.” While we checked this icon off our list, there are actually over 15 other filming locations scattered across Iceland just waiting for a return trip!
The Ultimate GOT Checklist:
Kirkjufell: The Arrowhead Mountain and the backdrop for the “Birth of the Night King.”
Þórufoss: The waterfall where Drogon makes a quick snack out of a local goat.
Hengill Mountain: The rugged landscape used for the epic Brienne vs. The Hound duel.
Thingvellir National Park: Home to the “Bloody Gate,” the narrow entrance to the Vale.
Reynisfjara Beach: The striking black sands of “Eastwatch-by-the-Sea.”
Dimmuborgir: The haunting lava fields where Mance Rayder’s wildling army set up camp.
Grjótagjá Cave: The famous “Jon and Ygritte” thermal spring cave (the water is as blue as the show makes it look!).
Vatnajökull Glacier: The vast, icy expanse used for almost everything “North of the Wall.”
Svínafellsjökull: Where Jon Snow and his crew captured a Wight in Season 7.
Skógafoss Waterfall: The beautiful backdrop for Jon and Daenerys’ dragon flight in Season 8.
Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon: Another stunning location featured in the dragon flight scenes.
Hverir (Namafjall): The geothermal area where the steam was used to simulate a thick blizzard.
Höfðabrekka: The jagged peaks near Vik used for the Frostfang Mountains.
Stakkholtsgjá Canyon: Where the “Wight Hunt” ambush took place.
Gjáin: The lush valley where Arya and the Hound practiced their “water dancing.”
Day 5: Farewells & Smooth Departures
After an unforgettable journey through the land of fire and ice, it was time to pack our bags and say goodbye to Iceland. We wanted an stress-free exit, so we focused on a slow morning and a solid plan for returning our trusty rental.
We woke up around 9:00 AM, which gave us plenty of time to enjoy one last Icelandic coffee while we cleaned up our Airbnb and did a final sweep for any stray wool socks.
Once we were packed up and ready to go, we headed back toward the airport to drop off our vehicle at Blue Car Rental.
📝 Pro Tip: If you’re renting in Iceland, Blue Car is a favorite because their return process is incredibly efficient. Once we handed over the keys, we hopped right onto their shuttle, which took us straight to the Keflavík International Airport (KEF) terminal.
We made sure to get to the airport two hours prior to our flight. While some people like to cut it close, having that extra time is a game-changer.
- Finding the Gate: KEF can get busy, so we found our gate first to get the “work” out of the way.
- Final Relaxation: With the logistics settled, we had about an hour to just sit back, grab a snack, and scroll through the hundreds of photos we took over the last few days.
Final Thoughts on the Trip
Leaving Iceland is never easy—there is a pull to this landscape that makes you start planning your return trip before the plane even takes off. We came for the Game of Thrones views and the hot tubs, but we left with a newfound respect for the rugged beauty (and the complicated gas stations) of this incredible island.
Although Iceland can certainly be expensive, don’t let the price tag scare you away from this bucket-list destination—with a little strategic grocery shopping and some savvy planning, you can absolutely experience the magic without breaking the bank.
The Grand Total: Our 5-Day Iceland Budget Breakdown
Here is exactly what we spent for two people to experience everything from the city streets of Reykjavik to the “Arrowhead Mountain.”
- Logan Express to Airport: $36 ($18/pp)
- Roundtrip Flights: $800 ($400/pp)
- Travel Insurance: $80 ($40/pp)
- 5-Day Car Rental: $320
- Fuel (Gas): $175
- Accommodation: $480 ($240/pp)
- Hotel Frón: $120
- Akranes Airbnb: $360
- Food & Drink: $255 ($127.50/pp)
- Groceries & Snacks: $90
- Nice Dinner Out: $125
- Drinks at the Bar: $30
- Famous Icelandic Hot Dogs: $10
- Souvenirs: $45
- Kirkjufell Parking Fees: $9
Total Trip Cost: $2,200 ($1,100 per person)
Traveler’s Note: Keep in mind that gas and food are where the “hidden” costs of Iceland! We saved a lot by hitting the grocery store for snacks and breakfasts, which allowed us to splurged on that one nice $125 dinner without any guilt.
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